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Category : A- Small Block "LA" : Block Prep





Fully Machined Customer Supplied Small Block.
This is based on a customer supplied Block.
These are exactly the same modifications and preparations we do to all of the engines we build in-house. Here are the details:      

We don't cut corners - we "make" corners.


  • We give the block a good visual inspection for obvious damage or reasons for rejection.
  • Strip and hot tank: The block is stripped of all removable parts, soaked and jet spray cleaned.
  • Magnafluxed ®: The entire block is checked for cracks with magnetic particle inspection.
  • Sonic thickness test: Each cylinder wall is tested for thickness, offset and condition. A graphic report is provided to the customer when the block is shipped.
  • Pressure test: The cooling system is pressure tested for leaks, porosity, etc. The block can leak without being cracked. If it does, we'll find it!
  • De-Burr block: All rough edges and casting seams are ground down to remove stress risers and eliminate casting flash.
  • Tap all threaded holes: Chase all threads and check for proper depth and condition. Repair as required.
  • Oil system modifications: The oil system is blueprinted and modified to be suitable for at least a 700HP Small Block.
  • Square Deck Block: The block is square decked true to the main bores with a BHJ Bloc-Tru® fixture. All corners of the block will be within 0.002". As an option you can even order a specific block height. Along with the square decking we also chamfer all of the bolt holes and install new cylinder head dowel pins.
  • Align hone mains: The main bores are align honed for accurate size and alignment. We chamfer the parting lines to keep from peeling the back of the main bearings during installation.
  • Bore and hone: The cylinders are bored in square alignment with the main bore and honed to size with a BHJ® race stress plate. The main caps are torqued in place during the honing procedure
  • Final hone: We final hone the block with a soft hone. This is a special, plateau finish on the cylinder walls for quicker and longer ring sealing. No ring break-in is necessary.
  • Notch bottom of the cylinders: For stroker rod clearance
  • Broach lifter bores: A special sizing ball broach is forced though the lifter bores for proper sizing, shape and clearance. This helps insure proper lifter rotation and cam lobe life
  • Hand wash block: The block is jet spray cleaned, final hand washed and power rinsed with very, very hot and clean water.
  • Install cam bearings: The cam bearings are properly modified as required and installed. They are also properly located and sized for smooth, free camshaft rotation. Two fingers will turn the cams when they leave our shop.
  • Remove and replace tower shaft bushing: Install and broach to size the tower shaft bushing. Your local shop doesn't even know this needs to be done, let alone how to do it!
  • Install freeze plugs: All freeze plugs and oil passage plugs are located and sealed. Does your local shop know about the two hidden plugs in the small blocks?
  • Degaussing: This is the process of checking for and removing magnetism from the block. Ask a good Chevy shop about this one.
  • Parts: Included in these kits are cam bearings, brass freeze and oil passage plugs, tower shaft bushing, ARP main bolts and cylinder head dowel pins.
  • Advice: All you need is a torque wrench. If you have any questions during your assembly using our race prepped kit block help will only be a phone call away. Our expertise and experience in building Mopars is at your disposal. We build a lot of engines over the phone. 
  • R3 and Ritter Blocks: Machine 59° blocks to use roller lifters. 

    Popular options:
  • ½ fill with hard block and epoxy.
  • Line bore.
  • File fit piston rings.
  • Install pistons on rods.
  • Install rings on pistons.
  • Main Stud Girdle Kit.
  • Hughes Supplied Block Core.
  • Sleeve lifter bores
  • Install main bearing spacers and line hone 







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